Region: Vin de France (Mâcon, France)
Grape: Pinot Noir
First Glance: High-toned, floral, red berry
Acclaim: 89-91 points
To lovers of great white Burgundy, the name Dancer will hold real renown. Theo Dancer is the latest generation at work at the revered Chassagne-Montrachet based domaine Vincent Dancer. The young and energetic Theo has recently taken over operations at the family domaine (though still working alongside his father), and has recently launched his own negoce project, experimenting with fruit from regions outside the Cote d'Or. Theo sources local varieties from places such as the Jura and Savoie, as well as Chardonnay from the Maconnais (under the Roc Breïa label). Quantities are almost laughably small, with the largest production being 300 cases per wine.
Everything under these labels is done with a focus on low extraction and early picking (often in the 11 - 11.5% abv's) for cut and precision. Likewise, minimal intervention techniques such as natural primary and malolactic fermentations, neutral vessels for ageing and very low sulphur additions, are all part of the DNA of these very personal wines. Both the Theo Dancer and Roc Breïa wines are labelled as Vin de France, as they are brought back and vinified in the family cellars in Chassagne.
The Roc Breïa is likewise sourced from the Mâcon, from vines planted in 1970 and 1985. While this part of Burgundy is best known for its whites, it can deliver refreshing Pinots of finesse. Like the Chardonnay this is picked quite early, translating into 11.5% alcohol, and is made with 50% whole bunches. Raised in used 500l oak.
89-91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The Roc Breïa 2021 Pinot Noir is just as charming as its white counterpart, bursting with aromas of red berries, plums, rose petals and orange rind. Medium-bodied, open and supple, with melting tannins and a lively, succulent profile, it will drink well on release.”