Domaine Jean Paul Et Benoit Droin Hommage à Louis (Les Clos) Grand Cru Chablis 2020


| /

A special name for Les Clos this year, in homage to Louis Droin, who in 1920 became the owner of a Grand Cru vineyard at the juncture between Les Clos and Valmur and described in official records at the time as “Au Clos, lieu-dit Les Clos”. For almost a century, and well before the decree of 1938 defining the AOCs of Chablis, all harvests from this parcel have been declared and sold by five generations of winemakers as Grand Cru Les Clos. Despite this, it is no longer officially authorised to bear the name of Les Clos according to the INAO. Despite this, it has always been blended with the domaine’s other wines from Les Clos. The 1920 vintage is the anniversary of the acquisition of this parcel by the Droin family, and as such bears a special name and label. 

The grandest of the Grand Cru sites in Chablis, Les Clos is a large vineyard that faces south and southwest, is rather steep and well-drained, and is composed of a seemingly perfect blend of white chalk and clay. Les Clos is a wine that can be easily misunderstood if opened too young. It tends to be compact, dense and have levels of hidden power that take a to of bottle development to appear. Over time and wonderful layered profile of citrus oil, orange peel and fine smoky notes appear. I would decant Les Clos for at least an hour or more before drinking. Droin is blessed with 3 distinct parcels in Les Clos. One at the very top, eastern side that is extremely stony and produces fine, delicate fruit. A middle section faces due south that Benoît finds has perfect reduction and minerality. Finally, a section on the bottom western corner that provides fruit richness and palate volume. In the context of global fine wine Les Clos, being the top site of its region, remains a relative bargain in the wine world and Droin sit comfortably amongst its very finest producers. Every wine collector should have some of this in their cellar and leave it alone for ten years before opening.' Justin Knock MW