En Guesnes, or Ez Guesnes as it appears on the map, is a cracking little site tucked up behind the 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot. Dureuil has a little Chardonnay here, but it’s the 1.3 hectares of 40-year-old Pinot Noir vines on the cool, clay/limestone soils that make up the bulk of his holdings. Ever-outstanding, we always request an allocation of this wine but don’t always get one.
Remarkably, given the price, the fruit for this 2017 was manually destemmed to retain the grapes and their pedicels intact, à la Bize-Leroy, Arnaud Mortet, Charles Lachaux and others. Grapes were then allowed to sit at a cold temperature for eight to 10 days before any juice was released, then a further 10 days after this before transferral to barrel (one-third new). It was bottled according to the lunar cycle, after 18 months aging.
This is Rully’s answer to Volnay! It’s a lovely, sexy wine, with bright red jube, kirsch and fresh rose aromas and flavours, and a pretty yet deep palate. Seductive fruit contrasts with the impressive, mineral and ferrous tannins that are so typical of this producer’s reds. In fact, the structure frames the wine magnificently and will ensure a very long life. The wine is already delicious with food, but if you have a cellar, you will be heavily rewarded with six- to ten-plus years aging. Buy what you can.
“… the 2017 Rully En Guesnes is one of the highlights of the range, offering up a classy bouquet of wild berries, dark chocolate, potpourri and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with excellent depth at the core, bright acids and powdery structuring tannins. This is a superb red Rully that comes warmly recommended.” 92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate