Region: Beechworth, VIC
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
First Glance: scintillating, mineral, semi-aromatic blend
Acclaim: 95+ points, The Wine Front
Sorrenberg is a small family operation in Beechworth, founded in 1986 with a focus on (certified) biodynamic farming. The Morey family work 3 plots at around 600 metres of altitude, all situated on the granite geology of the region. Operations here are tailored towards making elegant, well-balanced and honest expressions, without unnecessary makeup or extravagant weight.
This always excellent release features 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon, made in a scintillating, focused and mineral frame, with under-stated complexity and the ability to age gracefully. Most of the Sauvignon Blanc fruit had 4 hours skin contact prior to pressing. The Semillon component is crushed and pressed immediately after picking. The wine was 100% barrel fermented with predominantly larger barrels used. All went through natural yeast fermentation followed by extended lees ageing, and went through 100% malolactic fermentation.
The Best Cellars View:
The Sorrenberg SBS has more similarities with top-flight Sancerre, than with most Sauvignon Blanc dominated wines of Australian origin - especially in cooler vintages such as 2022. At this young stage the wine is still tightly wound aromatically speaking, with grapefruit, lemon zest, white flowers, just a lick of green gooseberry, and a light nutty after-thought from the lees ageing. Meanwhile it is the amazing structure that steals the show. Bright and crisp acids, light to medium body with a lovely glossy texture, a fine chalky grip and that laser-like mineral line that always permeates this bottling. Lovely to drink now, but the best is surely yet to come.