Schmolzer and Brown Brunnen Chardonnay 2019


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The Wine

This wine is frankly a black hole in youth. Such tightly wound, chalky aromatics, with hints of fresh lime and unripe white orchard fruits peeking through. Fine in the mouth, with notes of fresh cream then a freight train of stony natural acidity. This wine should age glacially, gracefully. Easily a ten plus year wine.

The Review

"Chardonnay from the cool, shadowy, Brunnen site in the upper reaches of the Beechworth region. 110 dozen made. The Brunnen vineyard is run organically, unofficially.

I had to sit with this for a while because it really takes time to open up. It’s a lean style, direct in a way though its subtleties are complex. It tastes of lemon curd and slate, steel and white peach, with angles of green pineapple and garden herbs, fennel perhaps. There’s an attractive whisper of smoked honey but for all these aspects it’s the direct line, the length, and the overall impression of precision that really makes you sit up and take notice."

94Pts, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front