Joh Jos Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2018


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“Classic Kabinett, with slightly more intensity,” is how Katharina Prüm succinctly underrates her 2018 Kabinetts. She also mentions that warmer years tend to level the playing field somewhat, however I’m not so sure! All the wines are delicious and, while it’s true that Graacher and Badstube have benefited from the warmer season (as they always do) yet there is no loss of vineyard imprint, with each vineyard clearly expressing their own distinct personality. There is a step up in power as you head north. Overall, the wines taste remarkably dry.

In cooler vintages, some argue (not us) that Prüm Kabinett is best drunk on its own as an aperitif. The 2018 wines can effortlessly stand up to a broader range of dishes; sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and even steak or tuna tartare for example.

“A beautiful kabinett, featuring notes of white raspberry and apricot, underscored by electric acidity and minerality, creating harmony and imparting energy and length. Light yet expressive, with a solid structure. Spice notes emerge on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2033.” 91 points, Wine Spectator