Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing higher concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis, capable of ageing even remarkably longer than “basic” Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.” In short, these extraordinary, botrytis affected wines live and evolve for aeons. They can work with appropriately matched desserts (ideally fruit-based or crème caramel, not too sweet), however, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury dishes and hard cheeses. You can throw anything at them, including spicy dishes, red meat dishes and those mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. They are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.
We have only the two most famous Prüm vineyards for Goldkapsel this year. Botrytis was less prevalent than in 2017, although Prüm managed to harvest a small amount of “beautiful, clean botrytis” throughout harvest: Graacher experienced more than Wehlener. Katharina Prüm explains how the grapes for Goldkap fruit is processed in the interview linked above. They are stunningly pure and intense examples of this genre and will live forever.
Sitting between Bernkasteler Badstube and Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich is rightly considered one of the two great vineyards of this historic Estate, alongside Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The hill faces slightly more to the west than Wehlener Sonnenuhr but is still south-west exposed. The gradient varies from 45-65% and the soils (if you can call them soils!) are made up of pure, deep and weathered Devonian slate. The wines from here are typically more floral, racier and more mineral than those of Wehlener Sonnenuhr—at least when young—and often the wines also become accessible slightly earlier, especially in dry years.