Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité 2019

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The Wine:

This singular wine comes from 0.7 hectares in Derrière chez Edouard, which was planted 20 years ago at around 30,000 vines to the hectare (the vines are spaced around 30cm apart in one-metre rows). At such a density, Lamy typically gets a maximum of three tiny clusters per vine (sometimes one, sometimes none!) and the entire plot only yields enough juice to fill the contents of a single barrel. Lamy’s trials with higher densities have produced completely different wines and he has subsequently rolled out this program in a number of other parcels including Les Tremblots (Puligny, 22,000 vines/ha) and within his soupçon of vines in Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (24,000 vines/ha). As you would imagine, distributor allocations of Lamy’s Haute Densité cuvées rarely top more than a few cases and the wines are seldom tasted in the cellars.  

How does this differ from the other cuvée from the same site? More intensity, more salinity, more mineral concentration—even though that may be hard to imagine—and somehow less overt fleshiness. It’s like the vines are sucking even more from their rocky soils and the result is something completely unique.

The Reviews:

“Deep and electric, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité unwinds in the glass with hints of pear, citrus oil, white flowers, fresh bread and toasted hazelnuts. Full-bodied, multidimensional and strikingly concentrated, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with racy acids and a long, precise finish. As I wrote last year, obtaining even a bottle will require considerable guile and a large disposable income, but what pleasures await the lucky few who will taste this profound white Burgundy.” 94-96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2019 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard "Haut Densité" 1er Cru has a taut, focused nose that needs time in the glass to really open up (something that may have led to my parsimonious score when I tasted this from barrel). The palate has really opened up in recent months, now offering exquisite balance, fine extract and a silver bead of acidity that counterbalances the concentration. Very persistent in the mouth – you feel as if you have just sucked on a rock! Brilliant.” 94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous

Five-star Wine. “Pale colour with even a lime green tint. Touch of reduction here. Altogether more tightly wound than the Puligny version of Haute densité, with a bevy of different citrus fruit at the finish. Less sensual, but a much more valid intensity. A more classical wine.” 93-95 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy