The Wine: The roll call this year includes Bourgogne-level fruit from Leroux’s key sources: the excellent Maison Dieu in Pommard; Mon Poulain in Volnay; and Belles Côtes in Meursault. In 2021 these sites are complemented by village wines from Saint-Romain and Monthélie. There were also a few barrels of Bourgogne from Vosne-Romanée, but in terms of style, it’s a Côte de Beaune Bourgogne through and through. This year, Leroux opted to use whole-bunch fermentation on the homegrown components of the blend only. Leroux has always made clear that his aim is to exceed expectations with his Bourgogne-level wines. Everything about this release—the fruit intensity, purity, structure and length—indicates that he’s succeeded once again. Maturation took place in 2,200-litre, Grenier oak casks, supported by a few 228-litre Burgundy barriques. There was next to no new oak used.