The stunning Bourgogne Blanc is a mini-Meursault this year, with the lion’s share of fruit drawn from multiple parcels in the village, including Leroux’s own vines inSous la Velle and Les Belles Côtes. Then, there’s 10% from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Raised in 12-hectolitre foudres and some 300-litre barrels, this has quite remarkable richness, depth and class for the level. Picked in late August, it’s a perfectly pitched, grapefruit, fresh pear and almond-noted wine that’s finely structured with a long and juicy finish. A benchmark Bourgogne Blanc (and it’s ditto for the Rouge below).