Everybody thinks of Chardonnay when it comes to white Burgundy, but there is another, under the radar white grape called Aligoté. This is one of the most stellar examples we have seen and it is so pure and intense, with great acidity and pure citrus, apple and mineral flavors.
Biodynamic. Goisot's old-vine Aligoté is drawn from parcels of 40- and 92-year-old vines, planted on the high, cool slopes of St Bris. Aligoté is notorious for requiring old vines and the right soils to produce wines of high quality, and Goisot's holdings--in the lieux-dits of Croix Rougeot, Côte de Coutance and Côte de la Canne--nail the brief. The soils are made up of ancient, limestone-rich clays, littered with fossilised oyster shells (i.e. limestone). Goisot's biodynamic management and commitment to harvesting ripe fruit results in a far more textured, pulpy and sexy wine than you might normally associate with this variety. This is particularly the case in 2018. As always, this wine was fermented with native yeasts and raised entirely in tank. The 2018 is deliciously layered white Burgundy packed with ripe pear, fresh almond and iodine-flecked fruit and topped off by a juicy mineral finish. Bargain.
"The 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté is bright and beautifully sculpted in the glass. Citrus, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper give the 2018 a good deal of energy to match its wiry, taut personality. I would give it a year in bottle to come together, but the 2018 is gorgeous even with just a bit of aeration. Best of all, it is a screaming value." 90 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous